Our Roses

 

Where to plant roses

Roses require an open, sunny position (at least 4 to 5 hours a day) and prefer a slight shade in early afternoon. Some hardy varieties can tolerate semi-shaded conditions (less then 4 hours a day).

• Never plant roses under overhanging bushes or trees (except some vigorous Ramblers)
• Never plant roses where there is competition from other plants or trees
• Provide shelter from prevailing winds and avoid draught.
• Never plant roses in soils, which have grown roses before, unless you thoroughly replace all soil (to at least 50 cm deep).
• Roses need plenty of air to prevent fungal diseases.

Soil conditions and preparations
Although roses prefer slightly acid (pH ± 6,0), well-drained soil with rich humus, they will grow in almost every garden if the necessary preparations are made and sufficient nutrients are available. Good free drainage is essential because roses cannot stand being waterlogged. Before planting, all types of soil will benefit from spadework and the addition of organic matter like, farmyard-manure, compost, organically based fertilizer. On light sandy soils the breaking down of the organic matter will take several weeks while on heavier clayey soil it will take some months before planting is possible.

When to plant roses
Bare-rooted roses are planted from late autumn to early spring, during dormant season. Best time for planting during autumn is October/November as long as the soil is free of frost. Planting in spring can start as soon as the soil can be cultivated (March/April). Container-grown plants can also be planted in summer. Never plant during hot weather or in very wet soil.

How to plant roses

Watering: Keep bare-root roses out of sun and wind to prevent roses from drying out. Before planting, place the roses, bare-root, for 6 to12 hours in water and ensure the soil is well prepared and moist.

Root-cutting: Cut back the tips of the roots and any long roots to about 25 cm. 

Stem-cutting: If planted in autumn cutting has to be postponed till spring. Both roses planted in autumn and spring have to be cut back in spring to 10-15 cm above bud union.

Planting: Dig a planting hole that is large enough to spread out the roots evenly and make sure that the bud union is 5 cm below soil level. Fill the hole with a mixture of soil and moist peat, firm it down by gentle treading, water well and earth up the stems with the same mixture to about 10 cm above soil level for at least 8 weeks. Keep watering newly planted roses until they are established.

Note: If climbers are to be planted against a wall, the  planting-distance should be at least 25 cm and the roots should be sloping away from the wall.

How to plant Standard Roses

Standard roses are planted similar to roses and have to be tide up to a stake that reaches into the crown.

How to plant container-grown roses

Never plant during hot weather or in very wet soil.

Before planting container-grown roses have to be watered well. Dig out a planting hole twice the size and dept of the pot, then carefully remove the plant from its pot. Place the complete soil ball at soil level, fill the hole with a mixture of soil and moist peat, firm it down by gentle treading, break up the surface of the soil ball and water well. Keep watering newly planted roses until they are established.

 

How to feed
Do not feed during planting. Feeding should be done with a long working all-purpose fertilizer or manure in spring after removing winter protection and before leaves are fully opened. After the first blooming in June spring feeding should be repeated. During growing season from April to July frequent feeding with liquid fertilizer is beneficial. Do not feed after July or soft frost-sensitive growth may be produced. Roses in pots and flower-boxes should be fed every two weeks.

 

How to deal with pests
To control pests (aphids, caterpillar, red spider, etc.) spraying with insecticides is necessary. However a small level of pests is acceptable as they provide nutrition for there natural enemies. Most insecticides offered will do the job, but follow the instructions carefully. Select a bee-friendly insecticide.

 

How to deal with diseases
Diseases like mildew, false mildew, rust and black spot are often caused by bad location, poor feeding, overfeeding, or bad weather conditions. These fungal diseases should be tackled by preventive spraying and by removing all affected and fallen leaves. The spraying should start in March/April as soon as new shoots appear. To prevent the fungus from becoming resistant, the fungicides used should be changed regularly. Most fungicides available will do the job. Follow instructions given on the packing carefully. Never spray in hot weather and only on dry foliage. Best time for spraying is during evening when bees are resting.

 

How and when to water
Roses have a deep-rooting habit of growth. That is why established roses need less watering then other plants. However newly planted roses, climbers against walls and roses in sandy soils, as well as all roses during a period of drought in spring and summer need frequent watering. A deep watering every few days in the morning or evening is the best way of watering. Avoid watering the foliage as this can cause fungal diseases.

 

How to deal with weeds
The soil around the roses should always be open and free of weeds. Hoeing must not go deeper than a few centimetres below the surface or rose roots may be damaged.

 

How to protect roses from frost and winter
In areas with frost during winter and early spring, winter-protection should be considered.

Do not prune roses in autumn, only shorten them against wind-rock. Remove all leaves just before winter starts. Earth up the stems to about 15-20 cm and cover the remaining parts with for instance pine-branches. The same goes for Climbers and Standard Roses. The best protection of roses in pots and window-boxes is placing them in a cool, light, frost-proof room. Don not forget to water them a few times during winter.

 

How to prune established roses in spring

When: Best time for pruning is early spring, when growth is just beginning but no leaves will have appeared. Roses planted in spring should be pruned just before planting.

Why: Pruning will encourage new growth, air and light circulation. It will improve shape, increase flower- production and rejuvenate the plant.

General rules: First remove all winter protection and suckers, then cut out completely all, dead and sick wood as well as thin and unripe stems. Always aim to produce an open centred bush. Cuts have to be made sloping away just above an outward facing bud (½ cm) and when taking out an entire stem the cut has to be made as close as possible to the parent stem.

Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Miniatures: all bush roses should be cut back to 10-20 cm from the base. After the first year more vigorous varieties can be pruned less hard.

Repeat-Flowering Shrubs: are cut back by one-third and weaker shoots by about two-third of their length. After several years it is necessary to rejuvenate by cutting back to circa 15 cm.

Once-Flowering Shrubs: no pruning is required. However prune to 10-15 cm every few years to rejuvenate.

Ramblers: should be allowed to develop freely, no pruning is required. Accept of course if they become to large or to rejuvenate.

Climbers: no pruning of the main stems is required until they are established after two or three years. The lateral branches on stems that have flowered are cut back to about 3-8 cm. To rejuvenate, after several years, cut back one old main stem a year, to about 15 cm.

Note: to improve flowering of climbers against walls, arches etc., main stems should be bend sideward.

Standards should be pruned as Hybrid teas and Floribundas.

 

Dead-heading
When flowers are fading remove the whole truss by cutting the stem under the second fully developed leaf or lower. Make sure that the cutting is always done just above the leaf bud. Never deadhead once flowering roses or varieties grown for their hips.

 

Pruning in summer
If shape or growth of your roses is not satisfying, extra pruning is always possible until the end of July. For instance if roses are becoming to large, or grow unevenly, or bare-stems are prominently visible, or after foliage is affected by diseases or after the first blooming, they can be cut back to, to your own judgement, about one-third of their length.

 

How to remove suckers
Because most roses are budded on a “strange” rootstock now and then shoots from this rootstock will appear. These suckers can easy be recognized from a desirable stem by its origin below the bud union and by its different leaflet form and colour. Suckers have to be completely removed as soon as they appear. With standards the stem must always be kept clear of suckers.

How to cut flowers
The best time to cut flowers is in the morning or evening, never cut flowers in hot weather. The petals in the bud must slightly show colour. Always cut just above a leaf; never take more then half the stem with the flower. Before arranging them in a vase, remove lower leaves and thorns, slit stem sloping for about 2-3 cm, keep up to their necks in water with a spoonful of sugar, and leave them overnight in a cool dark place. To keep the flowers fresh longer add one of the generally available products.